Collection Pieces

The case-manufacturing giant Keystone Watch Case Co bought the use of Edward Howard's name in 1902 and began production the very next year as Keystone-Howard. Their models were entirely new from those of Howard's designs forty years earlier, though the watch plates would continue to bear the name of E Howard. By 1905 the Series III had been launched, which were cased by the factory and sold as complete watches. This fantastic example was just thoroughly cleaned and reassembled, and once again has a heartbeat, timed here to the digital shop master. It still has its original dust band, everything under the dial is matching and correct, and the plates are remarkably free of corrosion. The single-sunk Arabic dial has a single light hairline at the 9:00 position, and the slender blued hands are likewise correct for this model. The 25-year gold-filled Keystone hunting case has very little mileage, showing the initials of what is likely the first owner on the shield and his full name on the cuvette. The hinges are tight, the crown is sharp and the crystal is glass, but the cherry on top is the factory mahogany box that still has the warranty cards with the hand-written serial numbers that match both the case and the movement.

Another great thing about this hobby and the study of railroad-era watches is the occasional variant that you've never seen or heard of before. Waltham's 16-size Model 99 is one such design in which I'd thought I'd seen every known pattern and style, including the interesting two-tone variant with the flashed-gilt train and barrel bridges but with a nickel pillar plate and balance cock. All serial numbers match on this example, which has a flashed-gilt perlaged pillar plate, nickel bridges, and the gilt hardware package found predominantly on the Grade 636, and is a first for me. Other examples within a couple hundred numbers of this one do not have these features.

It's been fully restored for the next owner with a thorough cleaning and a new mainspring, fronting a snow-white Arabic dial behind correct blued hands. It also appears to be an original combination of movement, dial, and a very interesting two-tone display case with nickel covers and a gold-filled frame. The rear cover matches the front one and does not look to be converted, but factory, so there is no visible trademark. Matching lanyard and display stand included. 

Original examples are the best examples because the movement and case started together on Day One, picked out by the first customer who stopped at the jeweler and made his decision based on his available budget. Even better are the ones that were carefully maintained over the decades and not abused, since those are sure to be in exceptional condition a century later compared to others. This 17-jewel hunter still has every one of its factory jewels, all intact in their settings, and the movement itself is still in excellent shape with a minimum of tool slips, freshly restored for the next owner. It fronts a correct single-sunk Roman-numeral dial behind blued Elgin hands and a glass crystal. Being original also means that there are no ugly ghost marks on the case rim left by the case screws of other movements, and this case is a beauty, made of sterling silver and several different gold amalgams in a floral pattern. The hinges and bow are both tight, the crown is sharp, the dust cover has no inscriptions, and the front cover does not overextend. Matching lanyard and display stand are always included.