Pocket Watches
Whether you're a dedicated collector or simply trying to get that old heirloom fixed, we know how to get these tiny and delicate engines running properly, so trust us with your grandfather's pocket watch for expert repairs that will take just a few days.
Back To Factory Specs
Do you want your antique pocket watch restored as close to factory-original as possible? We can do that.
You've researched your favorite models, bid on examples that caught your eye and spent the money to acquire each piece in your growing collection, so it makes no sense to ignore a century of accumulated "fixes" meant for a quick turnaround. Mismatched and incorrect parts belong nowhere on any mechanical device and do not weave the tapestry of your watch, so have it restored properly.
You wouldn't leave a Ford hubcap on a Chevy and call it part of the history of the car, would you?
Restorations starting at $95. Visit the Price Page for more info.
Accuracy Is Precision
There are no corners to be cut if an accurate watch is the goal.
It takes a hundred close-tolerance parts working in unison with little room for error for these antiques to function correctly.
- The balance wheel will be properly staffed, poised and weighted, and trued in both flat and round.
- The jeweling and escapement will be examined under the scope for flaws and replaced if needed.
- The gear train checked for condition, end shake and tolerance, and the mainspring will be tested.
- The movement timed against the three basic positions (dial up, dial down, and pendant up).
Doing It Right
Broken parts, mismatched hands, and missing screws all detract from the beauty of your heirloom watch, so when it leaves here:
- Every component will be matching and correct.
- Any missing plate enamel will be replaced.
- Plate tarnish will be greatly reduced.
- Screws and hardware buffed and polished.
- The proper hands fitted and colored.
- The dial replaced, repaired or whitened in solution.
- The case will be de-greased in a chemical bath.
- The stem and sleeve cleaned, and the bow tightened.
- The crystal will be reset or replaced with new glass.
The Final Results
Enjoy this slideshow of repair and restoration highlights from years past.
A Lot Goes Into Every Watch
Staff Fabrication
Any fabricated staff starts with a drill stock blank in diameters from 0.5 mm up to 2.5 mm. Taking very precise measurements, the new staff is turned on the lathe. After sizing the pivots, the staff is polished with a burnisher and is ready for service.
Custom fabrication starting at $65/hour
Re-Pivoting
An impact can easily break delicate pivots, and if that happens the staff can be trued up, the center found, and the hub drilled to precise dimensions. A new pivot is then fabricated to size and seated either by friction or by temperature inversion.
Re-pivoting starting at $125
Hairspring Re-Colleting
A cracked hairspring collet is caused by hammering it onto a balance staff that's too large. After removing the ruined collet, the hairspring can be transferred to a replacement, allowing the factory original to remain with the watch.
Re-colleting starting at $95
Hairspring Work
Snarled hairsprings are caused by impatiently tugging at them while removing the balance assembly. They can become laced, where the stud becomes woven into the coils. If it's not a total mess the hairspring can be untangled and reformed in a spiral.
Untangling starting at $65
Jewel Work
Cap jewels provide rebound surfaces for the pivots. The jewel on the left is too small, which can be replaced by turning a new blank to size and milling the screw pockets to the correct depth. Add a witness mark and the result is the jewel on the right.
Jewel milling starting at $65
Jewel Shellacking
Shellac is a naturally-occurring resin that is used to mount the roller jewel and both pallet stones, which absorb millions of impacts during their service life. It's very important that they be mounted correctly, and sometimes need to be reset.
Stone setting starting at $22
Micro-Welding
Cracks caused by careless hacks can be filled with new metal and milled back to original dimensions, assuming the alloy is nickel steel or steel-plated bronze. The nominal diameter of the set screw in the photograph on the right is 0.4 millimeters.
Micro-welding starting at $145
Under The Dial
The components under the dial are every bit as important as the ones between the plates, and yet they often go ignored. All of the hardware on your watch will be cleaned and inspected, milled flat and polished, and repaired or replaced as needed.
Component prices and hourly rates apply
Display Conversion
If your watch has a dazzling pattern, we can mill the back cover into a bezel, turning your vintage timepiece into an instant showpiece. Only certain types of cases make good candidates, so be sure to contact us first. We only cut into cases that are worn or damaged.
Display conversions starting at $75
Case Polishing
Nickel or silver watch cases can be polished up like new, unless there is ornate engraving. Gold cases shouldn't be buffed at all.
Case polishing starting at $25
Bows and Crowns
Crowns and bows wore out the quickest and are now getting very difficult to find, especially gold and gold-filled.
Starting at $30 if available
Pendant Parts
The stem and sleeve often go ignored for years and will be cleaned and adjusted or replaced if necessary.
Pendant parts starting at $45
Crystal Replacement
New and NOS glass crystals are available in open face and hunter in all styles and thicknesses.
Crystals starting at $35
All dial and cosmetic work is done during the restoration of the watch and none are offered as separate services.
Dial Refurbishing
Watch dials are fragile things made from porcelain, and like a mirror, once it's cracked it cannot be reversed. We offer basic repairs, although the dial has to be reasonably intact for us to have any kind of success. White porcelain dials only, please.
Dial refurbishing starting at $25
Enamel Replacement
Harsh chemicals can scrub the enamel inlay from the plate engravings, so we offer enamel replacement in both black and the brick red found on several Illinois models. It's a very tedious and time-consuming process, but definitely worth it.
New enamel starting at $25
Hand Coloring
Wartime material shortages meant using acrylic for crystals, which yellowed and caused the hands to rust. If the hands on your watch aren't too pitted they can be polished out and returned to the factory colors of either plum or cobalt blue.
Hand coloring starting at $15
Hardware Bluing
Nothing sets off the plates of a movement like blued hardware, and If your watch is missing a few blued screws we can give it back that factory look. Cap jewels, regulator arms, and even hairspring mounts can also be blued.
Hardware bluing starting at $15
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